It's the Year of the Dog! |
So this year, our new discovery was Jalan Bunga Raya, just north of the Malacca river and near all the Kampong Jawa cooking equipment shops we discovered on a previous trip. Bunga Raya was the old shopping street of Malacca, but the tourists deserted it for Jonker Street's charms and the locals were drawn to the newer malls with all the supermarkets and chain stores. So today there is a sort of quietness about the place, where the shops seem to hark back to yesterday and their proprietors slowly greying together with it. There is some rejuvenation, however, with new businesses starting up even as the main Jonker area gets more crowded and the benefits from the UNESCO status spill over out of the old town into the surrounding areas. So there are newer restaurants and hotels starting up here. We will see how it goes.
We were, however, here in search of New Year lanterns and other decorations, which my friend wanted to deck her home with for CNY. A local (I think it was either our hotel concierge, or our jeweller) recommended Jln Bunga Raya and so we walked over. It was evening, the street was dark and many shops were closed or closing. But as we proceeded, suddenly a few brightly lit shops appeared, all the better to show off the beautiful lanterns, of silk, paper or a felt-like material (made out of recycled cloth).
We wandered in and out of a few shops. Most sold fabric and other haberdashery or craft items, but during the CNY period, pushed all these day-to-day goods to the back of the shop and instead stocked up on the decor for CNY. Not just lanterns, but banners, tassels, paper cut pictures, and (since it is the year of the dog) lots of little stuffed dogs too. Business was reasonably good for the few shops which remained open; I suppose either locals or well-informed tourists made their way here to get their CNY decor.
Bunga Raya isn't exactly a short walk from our hotel in Heeren Street, so I didn't really expect to walk back the next day in the hot sun for lunch. But that is what we did. We were going to Manis J, the restaurant owned by the proprietor of the shoe shop, J Manik (of course at her suggestion). It was a pleasant stroll by the river, lined by the old buildings (and some new extensions), which were decorated to catch the eye - some with brightly coloured murals, and others with fun/gimmicky items such as this one which featured old cars - Minis and Beetles.
Lunch itself was really quite good. We had all our old nyonya favourites - Ngoh Hiang, Ayam Buah Keluak, Chap Chye, Hee Peow soup etc. And for the hypercritical Singaporeans we are, there were no complaints. Everyone ate happily. And I don't think it was the long walk.
Down the Malacca River |
Bunga Raya isn't exactly a short walk from our hotel in Heeren Street, so I didn't really expect to walk back the next day in the hot sun for lunch. But that is what we did. We were going to Manis J, the restaurant owned by the proprietor of the shoe shop, J Manik (of course at her suggestion). It was a pleasant stroll by the river, lined by the old buildings (and some new extensions), which were decorated to catch the eye - some with brightly coloured murals, and others with fun/gimmicky items such as this one which featured old cars - Minis and Beetles.
Lunch itself was really quite good. We had all our old nyonya favourites - Ngoh Hiang, Ayam Buah Keluak, Chap Chye, Hee Peow soup etc. And for the hypercritical Singaporeans we are, there were no complaints. Everyone ate happily. And I don't think it was the long walk.
Lunch at J Manis |