The Peranakans in Phuket Town

The Marriott Beach Scene

Kitchenette and dining area

My friend invited me to join her for a stay in Marriott's Phuket Beach Club, where she is a member.

We had a lovely 2-bedroom apartment, complete with a little kitchenette, dining and living area.  It was a cosy little place, and as there were only the two of us, we had our own rooms and our privacy.

The resort has a private beach, but as it is jellyfish season, no swimming was allowed.  In any case, the waves looked pretty rough to me.  But it was very pleasant to walk down the beach, looking at the horizon where the sea meets the sky. And to sit by the private pool, with the pool boys bringing around water and the occasional snack (like watermelon).

The resort runs shuttles to Phuket Town and Patong, so we visited both places.  Phuket Town is the civic centre in Phuket, where the government buildings are and where the early Chinese migrants settled. I have been to Phuket before, but never to Phuket Town and so this was the first time I actually learnt that Phuket was a major settlement for Chinese migrants to South East Asia.  According to this site, they were drawn by the burgeoning tin industry.  The Peranakan community prospered and apparently about 70% of Phuket's residents have Peranakan roots!   Hence, here in southern Thailand, we saw Peranakan architecture, clothing and food similar to that of Singapore, Malacca and most of all Penang.

Night Market, Phuket Town

But before exploring Phuket Town, we had to have a massage.  We went to Kim's, which has a number of establishments in Phuket Town and I have to admit it was excellent.  And much, much cheaper than the resort spa (of course).  The ambience is not so serene and restful, but the massage itself really released all the tension in my muscles and back.

We then proceeded to the little "Chinatown".  We had come deliberately on Saturday evening so as to be able to go for the Sunday Night Market in Phuket Town.  I could just imagine myself in Malacca - the Peranakan shophouses either side, the food and souvenir stalls and crowds bustling around.  Buskers sang and their music filled the air.  We walked around, taking in the atmosphere and feeling the buzz.

China Inn, Phuket Town

Later on, we had dinner at China Inn - a restaurant in another old shophouse.  The walls were decorated with old photos - I assume of the family who owned the restaurant - with the ladies all dressed in their Baju Panjang and the men in their western suits.

The food was not so much Nonya as Thai though - we had fish cakes, stuffed chicken wings (yummy), fried brinjal and green curry.  We also had a coconut each - the flesh was young and tender, easy to remove, and the coconut water was so refreshing.  We ended up having coconuts at practically every meal thereafter!

The next day we went off to Patong, famous for its beach and its sex show strip.  We spent enough time on the beach to take a few photos and walked straight through the sex show strip.  We were here for other reasons - like shopping and food!  I bought quite a few packets of Thai sauces (there's a wide range) and my friend introduced me to crispy pork skins (truly addictive). 

Fresh fish at 99 Seafood

But the main reason for our visit was to patronise my friend's favourite Thai seafood restaurant (99 Seafood)!  We ordered so much food I'm amazed that we managed to finish as much as we did - tom yum soup, squid, prawns, a veg dish and this wonderful steamed fish which was then gently poached in a lime/lemongrass flavoured stock.  All the food was very fresh and well cooked - I can see why she comes back here every year.

All too soon, it was time to go home.  I'll always look back fondly on this short, leisurely visit filled with days snoozing by the pool, walking on the beach and eating yummy Thai food.  And of course, discovering yet another little outpost of the Peranakans.

Little Nonya Mural, Phuket Town

More photos here!