Penang Peranakan food

I was chatting to my colleague just before our holiday to Penang and she kindly shared with me a few restaurants which she had been patronising on her own frequent visits to Penang.

Prawn Noodles at Malay Street

As a result, we ended up going to quite a few restaurants this visit to Penang!  Of course there is that seafood one which I wrote about in my last post.  But because of this, we ended up going to fewer hawker stalls (except for the Malay Street coffee shop which we went to THREE times to eat the famous Tiger Char Kway Teow and our favourite lor bak and prawn noodles, washed down with "ampala" juice - also known as "umbra" or "kedongdong").  I have to admit I have also stopped writing up on my Penang hawker experiences - it was getting a little repetitive but maybe next trip we will have to make an effort to revisit all the old favourites.

Food - from left to right: jiu hu char, inche kabin chicken,
assam fish head, rendang, hee peow soup, acar/otak/hae bee

Anyway, we are trying to work our way through the nonya restaurants in Penang and our first visit this trip was to Ivy’s Kitchen on Jalan Chow Thye.  This is a small family restaurant - Ivy’s the cook and her husband runs the front of house.  The restaurant is not that big so it might be good to make a reservation.

The food was excellent - we had the assam fish head, the jiu hu char (bangkwang or jicama fried with cuttlefish, and wrapped up in a lettuce leaf before eating); a beautiful creamy otak-otak, fried inche kabin chicken, achar, rendang (nice and tender) and hee peow (fish maw) soup. 

My favourites were definitely the otak - this was incredibly creamy and delicate, and the assam fish head - the gravy was so tasty and the dish was sprinkled liberally with bunga kantan (torch ginger). But everything was really very tasty and the portions were  generous (sized for our group of eight).  In summary, this is was authentic and yummy nonya food at reasonable prices.  We're coming back here.

Food (clockwise, from top right): Laksa,
Too-thor thng, assam fish, jiu hu char,
babi pongteh, fried mixed veg.

The next restaurant we went to was quite different - Richard Rivalee's, in M Mall.  Richard Rivalee is a well-known fashion designer in Penang but he learnt how to cook his grandmother's nonya recipes.  He started off with a small cafe beside his boutique but has now expanded to a larger restaurant in M Mall.  I didn't have time to visit the mall but from what I understand it is targeted at tourists and as such the shops mainly sell branded goods so I don't think I missed much! The restaurant itself is really very charmingly decorated, with lots of little Peranakan touches about the place such as the tiles on the walls, the kebaya clad mannequins and the Chinese couplets on either side of the doors. 

Food-wise, I have to say that the rempah/ gravy for all the dishes were really tasty and authentic.  But I was not too happy that a number of dishes were not available, for example the otak-otak, and the ikan purut (fish stomach), which I had been looking forward to!  Also, when I ordered the fish dishes, they were the same selar fish whether it was achar fish or assam fish (what I ended up ordering after finding out that the otak and ikan purut were both not available). 

Besides the two fish dishes, we had jiu hu char (again), babi pongteh (rather nice), and too-thor thng (peppery pig stomach soup).  We also had a rather interesting mixed vegetable dish - with four angle beans, petai beans, fried together with onions, sambal and prawns.

But what I really enjoyed was the assam laksa!  The gravy was rich yet piquant, and the helping was pretty generous too.  It's not quite a "pure" assam laksa as I think they added coconut milk, which would make this "laksa cham" or a cross between assam and lemak laksa.  Mmmm.... I could come back for this next year, too. 

Can't wait!

If you want to look at all my Penang food reviews, they are here.